Many skincare ingredients boast anti-ageing capabilities. Over-the-counter retinoids like retinol can fade age spots and erase fine lines while prescription-strength tretinoin can tighten sagging skin, while Vitamin C and peptides increase collagen production.
But do anti-aging products deliver on their promises? GH Beauty Lab conducted an experiment to see whether these creams work.
1. Retinol
Retinol is an effective ingredient used in many dermatologist-recommended anti-aging formulas. A derivative of vitamin A, Retinol interacts with specific nuclear receptors to alter how your skin cells behave – helping reduce fine lines, improve texture and tone and decrease pore size.
Retinoids were first approved by the FDA as topical acne treatments in 1971. Retinoids work by keeping pores open, increasing collagen and elastin production, helping reduce fine lines, large pores, uneven skin tone and discoloration while improving fine lines, large pores, fine lines, discoloration and uneven tone in general. Although prescription is necessary to obtain certain concentrations such as tretinoin or adapalene; over-the-counter products with lower concentrations (like 0.1% adapalene) also help diminish wrinkles; use gradually over several weeks without irritation or other side effects.
2. Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid, or HA, is an organic compound produced by our bodies naturally that can be found in eyes, skin and joints. When bound to water molecules they swell up creating an effective hydrating effect which locks in moisture, improves skin elasticity and flexibility as well as decrease fine lines and wrinkles.
Hyaluronic acid products come in the form of creams, ointments and gels; some can be bought over-the-counter while others require a valid valid valid prescription. Furthermore, you can find this substance as oral supplements which you can consume directly.
Hyaluronic acids can also be found in topical serums for topical application to your skin. Look for products containing low, medium and high molecular weight hyaluronic acids; or those made from next generation crosspolymers of this substance for instant and long-term hydration to achieve an even complexion.
3. Collagen
Collagen is one of the body’s most abundant proteins, providing strength and support to skin, muscles, bones, tendons and ligaments – it has even earned itself the moniker “glue of the body”. (This term derives from two Greek words for glue and collagen).
Glycine, proline and hydroxyproline combine into protein fibrils that make up collagen’s triple-helix structure. Their formation requires vitamin C as a cofactor; an insufficient supply leads to scurvy.
Topical products and supplements containing collagen have been demonstrated to improve skin elasticity, reduce wrinkles, boost bone health, treat osteoarthritis (OA), decrease knee and joint pain and stiffness and even treat osteoporosis (OP). Clinical trials have proven these benefits; however the quality of some research may vary.
5. Sunscreen
Sunscreen protects skin from UVA and UVB rays that damage it through wrinkles and discoloration; but it’s not the only way to safeguard it.
Sunscreen ingredients (also called sun filters) in most products do their part to block UV rays, such as avobenzone, homosalate and octinoxate which contain chemicals with benzene rings that absorb and dissipate UV energy into an invisible form of heat that most people don’t even notice as much.
Most dermatologists and estheticians advise using an SPF 30+ sunscreen, applying it approximately every two hours and reapplying frequently so it can bind better with skin cells. When combined with moisturizer, regular reapplication of lotion helps create a comprehensive protective shield around you.
